Fun Raising and Training Your American Quarter Horse

 

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Fun Raising and Training Your American Quarter Horse

By Vince Stead

Copyright

© 2013 by Vince Stead

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.

ISBN: 978-1-329-18983-6

 

1. The Characteristics of a American Quarter Horse

The American Quarter Horse is the very first horse breed native to the United States. Quarter Horses were bred to be able to do many things, like plowing, horse riding, pulling logs, and pulling carriages and more. Farmers usually took their horses to quarter mile races, which is how they got their name “Quarter Horses”. Quarter Horses also work well with cows, which got them the name perfect cow pony. The Quarter Horse started to become recognized in 1940 and the American Quarter Horse Association was created. The Quarter Horse today is most known as a race, ranch, show, and family horse.

The American Quarter Horse stands usually about 14 to 16 hands high. Hands high, where the hand is primarily used to describe the height of horses, ponies, and other animals. One hand equals four inches, and the horse is measured from the ground to the top of the withers, but some can grow up to 17 hands tall.

The American Quarter Horse comes in almost all colors. The most common color is sorrel, which is brownish red. Other colors that it may come in are black, brown, red dun, palomino, gray, dun, bay, etc.

For the American Quarter Horse there are two main body types, which are: racing type and stock type. The Racing Type Quarter Horses are made to sprint short distances. They are lean and have long and powerful legs. They usually race against other Quarter Horses. The stock type quarter horse is usually shorter and very agile.

Some genetic diseases that are found among the American Quarter Horse breed are Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis, Glycogen Branching Enzyme Deficiency Hereditary Equine Regional Dermal Asthenia, Malignant Hyperthermia, , Equine Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy, and Lethal White Syndrome.

The American Quarter Horse lives about 25 to 35 years old on average. The average weight for an American Quarter Horse is about 1,000 to 1,500 pounds, with males usually weighing more than the females.

 

2. How to Saddle a Horse

Saddle making goes back thousands of years, but it has evolved over the years. The methods have been modernized after realizing some flaws in the old ways of preparing a saddle. It was unknown how a saddle can be a real pain for the horse until recently. This pain was felt in the horse’s attitude and performance when the rider is riding.

Today good saddles are custom made to fit the horse and the rider. It requires many layers of coating that makes cushioning and measurements precise for the horse. The outer form of the saddle is made of leather which has at least two layers of cushion underneath. The whole process is done with much precision so that weight is evenly distributed while the rider is sitting.

Today it is easy to purchase a branded saddle that works with a lot of horses. You can also get it custom made with a special order and it is preferred to be done that way for your horse. A custom made saddle has a certain amount of wool stuffing for each horse. This is done by measuring the shape of the horse. Each saddle takes about 20 to 25 hours to prepare before testing.

Before putting on the saddle some people prefer to place a pad before the saddle so that it is more comfortable. When you are saddling up your horse, first inspect the body of the horse. When the horse is left free for a long time, there is sand and gravel on the surface that needs to be brushed aside to bring enough friction between the horse and the pad. Do the same with the pad if that has been left sitting for a long time. This is an important measure because unclean saddles can slip, especially when the horse is sandy.

To make sure you don’t ruin the hair of the horse and make it comfortable for it, start by placing the pad in the very beginning of the surface. Eventually push the pad to the middle of the body so that it is positions as you liked it. Again check the saddle for any trash on the surface and place it on the pad. A saddle laden with equipment is usually quite heavy. The right way to bring it safely is to swing it with momentum so it reaches the top of the horse side to side. Usually saddles are symmetrical so it won’t matter what side you have used.

Make sure that the saddle is lying freely and not being a burden on any surface. Once you think the saddle is rightly places, you just have to strap it up underneath the horse. You do not have to make it too tight because due to movement you will be shuffling. There are two straps normally made of leather, one is right before the front hooves. The second is just under the belly.

While the saddle is loosely strapped, you will have the freedom to adjust your saddle again. Just shake the saddle so that it settles in. Once you feel there is enough grip, you just have to tighten the strap one notch more. Another strap is a breast collar which is attached to the saddle. The breast collar is a personal preference.

The final way to check if your saddle is fine is that you see if it is firmly attached. If there is uneasiness to the horse you may know immediately. Some people try to be too careful but that is unnecessary but it is important to let your horse get used to rough handling. The final step you need to do is to simply ride up and get ready to stride.

 

3. How to Muck out a Horse Corral

Believe me, mucking out a horse corral is not that difficult of a job as you might think, as long as you know how to do it and how to prepare for it. Whether you like it or not, it is a part of your horse care routine, and so you might as well learn to do it right and painlessly. If your horse occupies the corral every day, than mucking must be done on a daily basis. Unclean corrals are not only unpleasant to you but to your horse also. In addition, they are downright dangerous. Insects thrive in dirty surroundings, giving rise to hoof issues. Horse urine contains ammonia, which, if not removed, will be breathed in by your horse, that could possibly pose problems for their lungs.

Some people actually find mucking out rather fun, because they say it brings them a strange sense of accomplishment like no other! They say, knowing that what you do makes a difference to the life of your favourite friend, even for a short period of time before the next mucking exercise, brings forth a certain level of satisfaction. It is a labour of love, as they say.

Okay, so let’s get down to business. First off, dress appropriately. Get into your most comfortable ‘roughing up’ attire. Wear a pair of gloves. A good pair will prevent blisters from happening on your fingers. Your feet need protection too, so wear a pair of boots. Not your leather riding boots, though, because the dirt (specifically, the urine that you will be dealing with) will affect the sewing on your leather boot soles, hence damaging them. Use rubber boots instead.

Armed with the appropriate outfit, now approach the work area. It’s better if your horse is not in it. Go send your horse off to graze in his favourite pasture, because you do not want him to get in your way. Then, look around and collect the feed tubs and water buckets in the area. There may be horse toys around, so put these aside too for later.

Now that the place is practically empty, gather your cleaning tools in a wheelbarrow and bring them into the stall. Your tools should include a pitch fork or a shavings fork (depending on whether you use straw, shavings, or sawdust as beddings). Take the fork and remove all unwanted stuff like wet beddings, manure, or whatever else ended up inside the corral. Dump them all into your wheelbarrow and out with it! Don’t fill up the wheelbarrow too high because you will run into the danger of tipping it over. Now that’s something you don't want to clean up again.

Once the manure and wet stuff are out, spread the clean stuff left behind evenly. Add new clean bedding, making for a comfortable retreat for your horse. Fluff it up with a fork. Make it as inviting as you possibly can. Should the floor be covered by rubber matting, then you can afford to use less bedding. However, if the floor is just concrete and nothing else, then use thicker bedding. Not only will this provide more comfort (especially during colder seasons), it is actually necessary so that it can absorb urine better. You do not want your bedding to be saturated with urine!

Once you are satisfied with the bedding area, now head for the alleys and doors of the corral. These must be clean and clear too. Just sweep away remnants of manure and beddings there. If the alley is not clean, it won’t be long before it becomes muddy and messy when you and your horse walk through it.

Next, fill up the feed tubs and water buckets. Place them where they should be so that your horse will find them at the usual places. Don’t forget to put back your horse’s toy; you don't want them to get to bored.

To make it easy for the next cleaning session, put all your tools in one place. This way you have no excuse to put off cleaning. Remember, scattered tools can be hazardous too. You or your horse might trip on them, causing unnecessary trouble, so make sure you put them away when you’re done so your horse does not get accidently hurt.

When all this is done, your horse is ready to be taken back to the comfort of his corral confines. Enjoy the fresh surrounding you have created, knowing your horse surely appreciates it too, and will love you even more!

 

4. How to Raise a Pony

Ideally, a foal should be raised by its dam. Just like the ordinary human mother & child bonding, natural dam-foal interaction provides the best conditions that lead to the foal growing up healthy both in the physical as well as social sense.

Unfortunately, there might be circumstances that cause this ideal situation to not take place. The mother might have died, or be in a sickly condition. It could be that the mother is taken away for breeding or other purposes. Sometimes the mother experience lactation problems, putting the foal in an orphaned situation. Some unfortunate foals are even rejected by the dam for one reason or another.

Do not despair. There is enough literature available to learn about raising a pony the right way without its mother.

The first thing you want to do is to look for a nurse mare. This way, the pony gets to experience ‘normal’ growing up routines. Unfortunately, it is not that easy to get access to one, and even if you do, the cost can be very expensive. Sometimes the cost exceeds that of the value of the foal.

If you cannot afford a nurse mare, then, hand raises the colt yourself. Of course, depending on the age of the foal, you have to spend much time and energy in this endeavor.

You must pay particular attention to the pony’s health requirements. Before fourteen hours is up after its birth, the baby must be checked for its immunoglobulin status. Of course a vet will come in handy for this purpose. Otherwise, you can go for commercial kits, they are quite reliable. Read the instructions on the kit very carefully, though. Should you encounter any anomaly, do not hesitate to get in touch with a vet immediately.

Apart from its immunoglobulin status, you must also think of colostrum’s, which is the stuff found in the dam’s milk at the beginning of the milk flow. There are colostrum’s replacements available, and you can feed it to the little pony via a feeding bottle. If this is not possible because the baby is too weak, then, ask for your vet’s help. It can also be done using a nasogastric tube for the feeding.

When bottle feeding, pay attention to some details, neglecting this, you might unknowingly put your little horse at great risk. For example, the milk you feed might not flow into the foal’s proper channel, but instead, get into its lungs through the trachea. If this happens, then trouble is imminent. Milk in the lungs causes aspiration pneumonia. If you wait to long before treating this condition quickly, then the consequences can be fatal. So make sure the baby does not lie flat when being bottle fed. Make the little one stand, or place it in between your knees, and feed in a position that ensures that its nose is not higher than the level of its eyes.

As the pony grows slightly bigger, it’s a good idea to let it drink by itself from a bucket of milk. This is actually a better way of feeding, as the risk described above is not involved here. It might be difficult at first but rest assured, the little animal can be trained to do it. To make the process easier, do not feed it for a couple of hours so that it is really hungry and wanting milk. But do not deny it food for too long, though. You do not want to cause other problems just because you want to train it to drink from a bucket!

Gently lead the foal to a bucket of warm milk, and encourage the muzzle to be near the bucket. Place your finger into its mouth. By reflex, the baby will start suckling. But don’t despair if this does not happen immediately. Be patient. After a few tries, you are likely to succeed.

Later, the foal will be ready for solid food. Offer hay and grain, and top off with mineral supplements. Do not forget fresh water. The little pony needs lots of fresh water.

Apart from good food, pay attention to exercising your little friend. It needs much of it and plenty of room to move about. Without exercise, your pony might grow up to be a fat and lazy horse. Surely you do not want that!

Raising a pony can be the most rewarding experience, especially when you see how the baby grows up to be the sweet horse you have always wanted!

 

5. How a Bit, Harness and Reins Work

Bits, harnesses, and reins are some of the common contraptions regularly used by horses. Each has its own functions and purposes. As a responsible owner, you should learn as much as you can about these so that when you purchase them, you are equipped with the appropriate knowledge to make the right decision on which ones to choose.

The bit is something that is placed in the mouth of the horse. It is meant to provide a bit of pressure inside the mouth, in the hope that this pressure, together with pressures exerted onto the horse’s nose, chin, and cheeks by other devices placed on the horse’s head, will result in the animal moving in the direction that the rider wishes it to go.

Inside the mouth, the bit is in contact with the tongue, the mouth roof, and the bars. Bars are actually gum that occupies the area between your horse’s front and back teeth. The tongue, roof, and bars are rather sensitive, which mean the horse will surely be affected by the presence of the bit. Be careful about bit pressure on the lips. It’s not a good idea to have the lips be under pressure too, because lip muscles are even more sensitive, and hence can result in damage in the area.

Obviously, the size of the bit must be suitable for your horse. Look at the contact surface of the mouth piece. More contact surface means less pressure will be exerted. Likewise, less contact surface results in more pressure on the area of contact. You want to choose a bit that is not too rough on your horse. Not only will an bad fitted one cause strain and anxiety to the steed, it may also very well result in unruly behavior of the horse due to the pain or discomfort the poor horse has to endure.

In contrast, a harness comprises of a collection of apparatus that enable your horse to be attached to other contraptions such as a carriage, a sled, or a cart. A breast strap is an example of a harness. It has a leather strap, quite wide in dimension, which is placed across the horse’s breast. The breast strap is suitable for small loads. The ‘collar and hames’ is another type of harness, and this variety is suitable for horses that are meant to carry heavier loads.

Depending on the purpose, harnesses are designed differently. There are show harness, carriage or van harness, cart or wagon harness, racing harness, and plow harness.

As for reins, these are essentially ropes or straps made of leather, connecting the rider’s hand to the horse bit. It is through the rein that the rider passes signals to the horse in a language that will enable the horse to respond appropriately. As the rider pulls on the rein, the bit in the horse’s mouth is somewhat pulled too, resulting in the horse’s head to move from one side to another. Remember, the bit is in the mouth, and the muscles in the mouth are sensitive. Different types of movements with different pressure or amount of force mean different commands. The horse will change direction or make a stop, depending on the signal it receives. This is how a horse’s movement is controlled by the rider.

The bit, harness, and reins are a part of a collection of accessories that enable the horse to perform in a manner that you want it to. All three must not only be in good working order, but must be comfortable and familiar on the horse before good outcomes can be achieved out of them.

 

6. How to Use a Hoof Pick

A hoof pick is a device you use to clean the hooves of your horse. You can find a hoof pick in any tack shop, and it is relatively cheap. It is usually made of steel alloy or just steel, with a size slightly bigger than the typical mobile phone.

The hoof pick is a must have tool in your regular horse grooming routine. Some people insist that it should be used every day whether or not the horse is ridden. Some say the cleaning should be done not once, but twice in a day. Before you ride your horse, cleaning must be done. After the riding session, cleaning should be done again. If you have ever had to walk with a rock in your shoe, you know what you horse might be feeling, so take good care of him and her!

To do a good job of hoof picking, get a good hoof pick. There are some varieties in the market. Some picks come with a small brush that can be used in the cleaning process. Choose one that feels good in your hand. If you do not feel comfortable holding it, you might find it difficult to maneuver it during the cleaning process. Because you will be holding and somewhat supporting the hoof while cleaning, any additional discomfort coming from the tool that you use should be minimized as much as possible.

To start doing the cleaning job, position yourself near the horse’s elbow. Take a deep breath and lean your body on the horse, while applying some pressure on the area above the hoof at the back of the leg. This area, which comprises a bone extension, is called the fetlock. Alternatively, look for a spot above the hoof at the front of the leg. This is the horse’s pastern. When you do this, the horse will hopefully lift its hoof, shifting its weight to its other legs, as would be natural for them. You are now in a position to do the cleaning. But before that, place the pastern on your knee so that the horse is comfortable while you carry out your cleaning task.

Take the hoof pick and apply it gently onto the hoof sole to get rid of whatever fragments of dirt or debris you find there, be it mud, stable bedding’s, small stones, etc. Use a pulling motion, moving in an outward direction. The hoof pick is a sharp object. So, as a safety precaution, ensure that the sharp side of the pick is pointed away from you at all times. This is because sometimes the horse gets rather cranky, and if the sharp side is not pointing away from you, then you might be in a danger of getting hurt if for some reason your horse decides to make a sudden move.

Take extra care if the horse is shod, as there might be debris which is lodged in between the horse shoe and the sole of the hoof. Take the tip of the hoof pick and insert it into the small crevices and folds of the hoof (called the frog) so that any debris residing there can be dislodged.

Once you are satisfied that you have gotten rid of as much debris as possible, do a quick check on the hoof. See if there are sole bruises and other anomalies. The bruise might be reddish in color, which is an indication that the horse’s hoof was hurt at some point in the last couple of months.

You might also notice a feature known as ‘heat’ in the coronary bands of the hoof. The presence of the bands should not be taken lightly. Contact a vet as soon as possible. Usually, the horse tends to nod its head towards its good leg when it is ridden. This might be an indication of lameness. You know very well that a lame horse is of no use, so do take this very seriously.

 

7. What Kind of Shelter Does Your Horse Need?

Horses found in the wild do not need any human made shelter. In extreme hot weather, horses find comfort underneath shady trees. Likewise, they seek protection from thunder storms and heavy rains under whatever natural contraption they can find. Many horses love rain, though.

What about horses that are domesticated? Do they need human made shelters then?

I think your horse will absolutely love having a nice place to live, and be protected from the weather, since they are tamer than a wild horse. The best form of shelter would be space, enough for them to move around comfortably without feeling constrained. Typically, one horse needs about one acre of pasture. Of course, the pasture must be of the good and grassy variety. However, this is just an approximate figure. Ideally, more space is needed per horse, especially if you have a thoroughbred.

Shelter also comes in the form of a herd. Your horse needs this so that it can grow up and mature normally. A herd not only provides comfort and protection, it also provides a good education ambiance. Plenty of social skills must be transferred between the ponies and the adult horses in the herd. Ponies need their compatible peer groups too. They need play mates who are from their own age group. What a similarity this is to humans!

If you have an average size horse, a 12 by 12 stall would be good enough. Never go under this figure, especially if yours is a thoroughbred. Just as you do not want to be crammed in a small space, neither does your horse. This is particularly important if the poor horse spends considerable time indoors. The rule of thumb is to see if the size can provide enough room for the animal to turn around.

If you do not have the luxury of ample spaces, then you need to get the services of a horse boarding stable to shelter your loved horse. When choosing one, it is worth your while to pay it a visit first and see how the occupants of the stable are treated. There may be some conventions and procedures that you may not like.

Generally, there are a couple of boarding styles out there. Pasture boarding is the cheapest amongst all boarding options. Your horse will be staying outdoors most of the time under this arrangement. Although outdoors is acceptable, you should insist on your horse being brought indoors when the weather dictates it.

There is also self-boarding. What these mean is that, your horse is placed in a specific space in the stable, and probably access to a pasture too. Normally, you yourself do the feeding and other daily chores. Semi boarding is a bit like self-boarding, but this time the boarding staff can do some of the chores for you. If you are hard up on time, this may be a good option.

Full boarding is the most expensive option, where your horse’s necessities (like feed, heath care, daily hygiene, etc.) are fully taken care of, leaving you with enough time to spend quality bonding moments with your favorite horse. Look for quality full boarding services before leaving your horse to one. You want to feel good about this. After all, if you are spending good money on the service, you want to have the peace of mind that your horse is well taken care of in your absence!

 

8. How to Use a Round Pen

A round pen is an enclosed area, circular in shape, and is usually of a size which is not too big and not too small. It is used to perform horse related ground work and training in a safe atmosphere. The most appropriate dimension of the pen would be in the vicinity of 60 feet in diameter, which is comfortable enough for the horse to try out a range of gaits, and for you to exert control without over doing it.

Circular is preferable to rectangular because with a round fencing, there is no corners that the horse may very well use to get itself stuck in, hence making your horse training session more challenging than it should be.

The best way to use a round pen is to stand in the middle of the enclosure. This way, your horse gets to use all the area around you, giving him the freedom of movement he needs in order to learn your body language and what is expected of him. Start with waving your arm in a light manner, and watch how your horse responds. Is he paying attention to you? You can tell by looking at his ears and eyes. If it is affirmative, then move yourself onto your horse’s path. The right response to this would be that the horse should stop. When he does, move backwards, with your shoulders a bit low. Your horse should square up on you and approach you.

When you ride the horse, use all kinds of gaits. Go around the pen, and study the way he responds to your body movement. For instance, when he looks towards you, move on. While backing, move your body away from him. Get close to him and pet him from time to time to provide reassurance and support. Do not raise your voice unnecessarily, you will only cause him stress, and that will make your training session difficult, not to mention damaging. Remember, you want him to trust you. Give him all the time in the world that he needs to get used to you and understand you.

Done correctly, and with the right chemistry between you and your mare, both of you will develop an incredible and amazing relationship based on mutual trust and understanding. You are the leader, and your horse is the follower. Whatever it is, you want the same result, signal it to turn, and it will. Cue it to stop, and stop it does. Some relationships are so strong that you almost have to just think of a command, and voila! Your horse responds to you magically!

Although the round pen has done its part in producing very well trained horses (and also in rehabilitating horses with behavioral issues), criticisms on it are rife. Some people say that training the horse using round pen techniques may cause psychological damage to the animal, and can very well lead to behavior problems later. Others say the round pens are suitable for certain types of horses only, namely the more aggressive ones. Having said that, there are some testimonies which say the round pen has been used on all types of horses and they all work well.

If you want to be successful in training your horse, accept the fact that they are different individuals. Some techniques may work on them while others may not. Find out which works best for you. Most of all treat your mare with care and respect. Horses deserve this as much as humans do!

 

9. The Best Way to Keep Flies Off Your Horse

Wouldn’t it be great if there are horses and horseback riding minus the flies that insist on being around to spoil the fun by providing the nuisance factor in the equation? For heaven’s sake why can’t the pests leave the poor horses (and the riders) alone? Flies can be so irritating that what might have been a wonderful bonding experience between you and your horse turns sour by the constant distraction the flies cause.

But luckily, there are means and ways flies can be kept at bay as far as your horse is concerned. Some are very effective, some not so, depending on the likes and dislikes of you and your horse.

The easiest and most popular way of keeping flies off is by applying fly repellants. These come in many forms, sprays, creams, and lotions. When applied, your horse will be rid of the pests for as short as two weeks or as long as two months. These ‘potions’ can be found in any good tack shop, and the good news is you can even try to make your very own potion at home! There are numerous recipes available, many of which use vinegar as the main ingredient.

In addition, there are also physical contraptions that can do the job, for example, neck bands, collars, and fly fringes. Once again, while these can be bought at the shop, some can be constructed at home using materials that are available around you. Bear in mind, though, that if not designed and attached to the horse properly, these can be as much (or even more) of a nuisance than the flies themselves!

Let’s start with the sprays, creams and lotions. If you prefer this method, be very cautious when you apply the stuff to your mare. Always avoid the eye area. In fact, it’s better to steer clear of the horse’s face, especially when you want to use spraying. Instead, just spray on a towel or some soft fabric, and then gently wipe the fabric under your horse’s eyes and ears. Remember Under, not over, because there is a chance that you might have over sprayed the fabric, resulting in the liquid dripping into your horse’s eyes and ears. Obviously, this will cause other problems you do not want to deal with.

If you want to make your own spray mixture, the simplest recipe involves water and vinegar. Just pour one cup of water and two cups of vinegar in a bowl, and stir. To make it nicer, take a cup of bath oil and a few drops of eucalyptus oil into the solution. This recipe makes the perfect homemade spray. It’s gentle to your horse, as long as you do not use it lavishly onto your horse’s face.

If you decide to go mechanical, then look for bands and collars that can be affixed around your horse’s neck. These have been chemically treated with fly repellent. But be careful not to place it too tightly. You don’t want to hurt your horse in the process of protecting it from being harmlessly irritated!

In addition, there are fly masks that can be worn by your horse. The masks are usually thin, and cover the ears, eyes, and the nose. Do wash the mask from time to time to ensure that your horse can see through it. When wearing one it is best not to ride on it, because obviously you horse will not be able to see well through the mask, especially if it is caked in dirt. However, riding down quiet trails is okay, as long as you do it slowly. Pay attention also to flies that might have gone under the mask, irritating your horse’s eyes even more so.

Some people prepare fly traps. You can make one by mixing 2 cups of water, half a cup of vinegar, and half a cup of sugar in a bowl. Pour it into your fly trap.

Others swear that if they add something into the horse’s drinking water, the horse will appear less attractive to the flies. Apple cider and vinegar are the main ingredients in this. Some say add a bit of garlic into the food, and compensate with plain yoghurt and molasses for taste. These have been found successful on some horses, and not on others.

 

10. The Different Types of Horse Saddles

There are close to twenty different types of horse riding saddles available on the market, each one different from the other, depending on the specialist requirement and quality of the saddle. If you are new in this area, buying one can be a daunting experience. Not only are there so many kinds of saddles to choose from (and hence making the selection process rather overwhelming), choosing the wrong one may cost you more than just a lot of money. An ill-fitting saddle causes discomfort, even pain to your horse even though you, the rider, may find the same saddle comfortable. The last thing you want is to cause distress to your favorite mare!

The most popular type of saddle is the general purpose variety. It is predominantly used by riders with no or very little experience. It is also used amongst intermediate riders. In fact, horse-riding training centers use the general purpose saddle on learners as it can be fitted quite comfortably for basic riding, jumping, dressage, hacking, hunting, and cross country activities. Besides, this type of saddle is very flexible in that it can be accommodated to various body (both the rider’s as well as the horse’s bodies) shapes and sizes.

Nevertheless, a rider who has a horse of his or her own may want to go beyond the generic general purpose saddle, and get one that specifically suits his or her own unique requirement. Of course, this requirement must be spelled out appropriately, and is in accordance to three main variables. The type of riding to be carried out, the shape and size of both the rider and the horse, and of course, the budget available for riding. Fortunately, you can find both brand new and used saddles, so if you have a modest budget, you may still find a good one as long as you do not mind buying used and looking for a good deal.

The main types of saddles are hunt seat saddles, dressage saddles, flat racing saddles, jumping saddles, kids’ saddles, western saddles, and treeless saddles. As its name implies, hunt seat saddles are for hunting purposes. Originally dedicated for hunting foxes, it is very sturdy and can be firmly secured. Hence, when the horse jumps, the rider is not only held safely, but comfortably as well.

Dressage saddles are for more experienced riders who enjoy participating in flat work competitions. This type of saddle is also most suitable if you want to ‘show off’ your horse. It has a deeper cut and a deeper seat, providing for better balance to the rider. Flat racing saddles are made of thin and lightweight materials, enabling the rider to make precision motions due to the good leg contact the materials allow.

Jumping saddles are obviously designed for jumping. When the horse goes over the fence, the saddle pushes the rider to the front, placing him or her in the ‘two-point jumping position’. The flat seat of the saddle allows this to happen. Jumping saddles have bigger flaps, which affords more support to the rider’s legs.

Made specifically for children, kids’ saddles are of leathery cottony synthetic lightweight materials suitable furs mall children as well as little ponies. For balance, some designs incorporate handles. As for western saddles, their use is in the ranch for long durations and rugged applications like sharp turns and jumps. In contrast, treeless saddles are made from leather and foam padding, and designed so that the rider’s body can move freely. This makes it ideal for horses that have difficulty getting a good saddle fit.

Remember, only the right kind of saddle enables you to enjoy the best riding experience, so before you buy one, make sure you ask the right questions to yourself and use the answers to pick your saddle. Insist for your horse’s measurements to be taken. In fact, try the saddle on your horse first before making the decision to buy it, because while you may find it fitting and comfortable, your horse may not! Do not hesitate to pay a little more, because comfort is a factor well worth the money you pay.

 

11. How a Cow Horse Performs

Rodeo shows are a great example how animals can be trained to perform exactly as you want them to. With a little gesture they will do exactly what you want them to do, like move, and this is only possible with a lot of practice and some know-how about handling horses.

An expert would easily tell which horse is best for Cow Horse class. Some horses are completely untrained for other grounds and that will lead to a loss in the field. If you know that your horse is in a class that has ‘jumping’ acts then you should never bring him to a Cow Horse class. The Cow Horse class is trained to work in a single kind of an arena where a herd of cows are gathered. They are trained to handle cows in different fashions. Some of these are called: Reining, Cutting and Fencing.

These horses are known to be very effective in carrying day to day chores in cattle ranches. Just with the tips of the fingers of the rider, the horse responds immediately and does as directed. They need to respond at pinpoint accuracy because it has to challenge the versatility of the cattle.

The reigning technique is when horses ride in a pattern of circles, stops and spins. They are quite a sight when it is in action because not anyone can pull this off. The quality of a good rider is that his aids are hidden so well that the audience cannot notice the signals the rider is giving to its horse. This way it seems as if the horse knows what it is doing effectively. Those cow horses that are not completely trained may stop and flicker their ears to signal a threat to its rider. This will bring the whole performance to an abrupt stop and will judge movement on its own. There are different ways they can do reining performance.

The horse runs at a speed and then comes to a sudden stop, causing it to skid on the sand. It can happen in combination with other acts as well. They can also do a flying lead change where they can switch direction while they are in the air. In the process the horse is expected to maintain speed or even increase in speed.

The rundown is a technique where the horse runs alongside the border with a gap of nearly 20 feet, and then takes a sudden turn towards the judges. The horse can also walk backwards without moving its head. It can take a complete 180 degree turn while running. The horse can also spin in its own axis for some time.

Cutting is a technique that is done with a cattle. It is done to control one cow that breaks away from the cattle by cutting its initiatives. This is done by blocking the cow’s way until it is cornered or forced to move in circles. When this happens without it getting exhausted then it gives a good score to the rider. The whole performance is just for a short period of time.

Fencing is a technique where a cow is made to run along a fence for a short period. If the cow manages to break away from the fence and move in its own direction then it is a loss. A successful attempt makes the cow run along the fence for a short while and it requires sudden coherent dodges as the cow moves. To the audience it seems as if the cow is running along with the horse.

There are many more acts that riders customize their way to impress the judges. Only seamless execution is observed by the judges and hence scores are awarded. The scoring begins with a score of 70, after which points are either added or deducted based on performance. Speed is appreciated and gives higher rate of points. Those who do frequent errors are awarded a ribbon for their horses for earning a ‘zero score’.

 

12. How Horseshoeing is Done

Horseshoeing is a way of giving an artificial shoe for the horse to give it support for galloping or running. Natural shoes were always accepted but due to developments of roads and other reasons of working environment, this was made necessary. Horseshoeing is also not allowed by any person to do but only those who are approved to get it done are allowed.

They are aware that since horseshoes are artificial, it prevents the growth and development of the natural shoe. Eventually the breed of horses do get dependent on shoes if they are not allow for a year or so to run on natural shoes. Those horses that have always run on natural shoes eventually developed shoes strong enough to run on sand and on roads effectively, but it is a long process of natural selection.

Shoeing may seem painful to the horse but if it is done by an approved person, it is actually a painless process. The old shoes are initially removed to prepare way for the new shoe. These shoes are made of allow metal so that they can endure any amount of pressure. To start, first the old shoe is cleaned with a rasp and then the old shoes is removed with pull-off tongs.

To prepare the foot, you have to lift it in a position where you can see beneath the shoe and use a rasp. Use the rasp to remove the nail ends so that there is no edge to catch on. Now it is required to remove the old shoe with pull-off tongs. The right way is to get a grip by bringing the foot between your legs. Use the tongs to clip and squeeze the beginning from the start of the heel. When this is done to the edges of the shoe you just have to pull each nail out from the old shoes. The right way to pull is to drag it in to a downward motion and not sideways, because that could chip off some area of the natural shoe. Soon you will notice the old shoe comes off.

The next step is to trim the foot by taking a hoof knife and you hold it like an ice pick. This is used to trim the sole of the shoe. In this step all is needed is to trim and remove the dead sole. It should not be done because the natural sole is needed sufficiently.

The next tool you will need is nippers, to cut the hoof. You will need to gently hold the edge of the hoof gently and then squeeze hard enough the clip it off. Continue and overlap as if you are opening a can with a can opener. You will have to work your way to all edge of the hoof and the edges will come off. It gets tricky how deep you want to clip but you will get the idea with some experience. Finally you will see a whitish surface of the shoe which needs just a final rasping using hoof knife.

With a final look to the shoe you should be able to notice how the ends of the shoe are even. If they are jagged or uneven then you can further rasp it so that it is even. The next thing that is required is to remove the flare of the shoe by rasping. This is done by placing the foot on the wooden rod and then rasping the edges so that the flare comes off. The result will be an even surface around the toe. The new foot grows from the hairline so you will not be damaging the natural process but just imitating the shape.

Finally you just need to place the new shoe on the foot and see if it is aligned with the natural form. It will stick by hammering nails towards the natural shoe so that it stays firmly on the shoe. This requires a good 5 minutes until the new shoe is firmly in place.

 

13. How to Enter Your Horse in Shows and Rodeos

Horse shows are very entertaining as there is always unpredictable action on the field. It is a good test of patience and skill with horse riding. There are many shows that take place in a different scale. Those that take place only once a year are quite big where there is a large number of applications and relatively difficult for new comers to join.

It is always advised that new comers try a local rodeo show before they go to the national level. Even if you have a lot of experience with horses, the test of endurance in horse shows is a lot more and could be surprisingly difficult for some. Ideally you have to go through some practice before you can be ready for a show. Nevertheless, once you have decided, don’t forget to invite your family and friends to be there for your support.

The first thing you need to do for a rodeo show is to be mentally prepared to join. It will definitely be an exciting experience but you will have to tend to your horse most of the time. Not the best of facilities will be there so there is a lot of time you need to spend before you set out. Secondly, you have to look for the nearest rodeo show that takes place.

If it is a regular show then that would be a good choice for a new comer. There are two kinds of shows in the beginner category. These shows could be during weekdays or during weekends. They are generally unrated shows which do not have heavy requirements to be a part of the show. Those who are experienced can go for bigger shows to see a greater challenge. You also need to see if you can easily take your horse to the desired location. Some people can take trailers so they can keep their horse tied nearby. Usually you have to purchase a stall in these shows.

If you have chosen a show of your choice and convenience then you need to see how you are going to manage your horse. The last thing you need is to get your horse agitated and disturbed, ruining your program. If the show has no stalls then you will need to rent a trailer to which you can tie the horse and also stay near the show for the night. This way you can keep a watch on your horse from time to time.

If there is already a stall then you should find out how it is. Not all stalls are fully equipped but they could be sufficient enough for your horse. See if the weather will be suitable for your horse if there is not a warm area to keep it in. If you inspect this beforehand, you will know what things you need to carry to the show. To be on the safe side, families normally take some mattresses for bedding, some cloth to keep the horse warm so it can stay comfortably over the weekend.

Good rodeo shows have a health team that is deployed with veterans who can look after horses. Smaller shows have donated gear in case something bad happens to the horse. It is good to be assured that you will have a backup plan if there is a bad experience in the show. It is best that you get your horse checked before entering the show.

Since your horse will be on public display, you will definitely want it to be looking nice. You should keep some grooming equipment so you can give your horse some company and maintain him or her. You can also buy some gear at nearby stalls which can be interesting. The merchandise can vary and these qualities will add to the score when you will be performing.

Some shows normally have a tack that works as a ticket entry for the horse. Without this your horse may not be admitted to the show. Make sure you get this arranged beforehand. Bigger shows require you to fill out a form online or get it submitted on paper. Once you get a special tack from the rodeo show, this will be gear for your horse. This matters a lot to the judges who are observing everything about the horses that are on the field. Make sure the tack is oiled and very clean when it is ready for the display.

The most important investment you will be making to make it to the show is wearing the right uniform for the show. You will have to wear breeches, tall boots, show shirt and jacket and a helmet. The show will actually specify what you need to wear depending on the competition. This will be an important guidelines and valuable for your scores from the judges. You should have at least one white shirt for the show so that you are ready. The apparel can be quite expensive but it is a good investment that you can keep for other horse rodeo shows that you will be enrolling in to.

If you need some advice in getting your horse enrolled then reach out to the associations that are participating in the event. They know the guidelines to get your horse ready for the show. It is likely that the show also has a website where you will find a section for Frequently Asked Questions and a contacts page where you can meet the right people who can guide you through specifications.

 

14. Nice Safe Toys for Horses to Play With

All animals out there are bound to live in a natural environment, but the human living style has made some of them adopted to live in controlled atmospheres, which is what we refer to as domestic animals. Among them all such pets from small ornamental dogs to cats to big animals such as horses might get stressed out when confined to the limits of a cage or house, rather than being left free in the wild.

It is here that the role of stress relief toys comes. As horses has been identified to be one of those who require a higher stress relief has various nice and safe toys to play with, available in the market.

Let’s take a look at some of the most safest and apt toys that your horses can be dealt with during their stable stress relief.

Equi-Spirit: This equine Soccer Ball is a large soccer ball, which can be played by the horse along with the rider. Normally played in teams, where riders ride their horses and enables them to kick the soccer ball towards a goal!

Equi-Sprit: This equine Catch Ball is a ball that is smaller in size as compared to the above discussed soccer ball and can be volleyed by the horse to the owner or vice versa. This game is good for a lasting bond between the individual and the horse.

Horse Jolly Toy: This is something similar to the jolly toy for dogs. The difference is in the size where the jolly for horse is made with a diameter of 8 to 10 inches. It also comes in various flavors.

The Pas-A-Fire: This apple flavored mounted toy is a good companion for your horse inside the boredom of the stable.

Wiggly Giggly: This ball from Equine makes simple noises while moved by the horse while playing. It can be tossed either inside the stall or out there in the pasture.

Horseplay Round Free Rolling Field Toy: These toys allow the horse to play with it whereby some special moves will release some snacks and food tit bits, which will motivate the horse to play more.

Horseplay Round Mounted Stall Toy: This toy is also a treat giving one, whereby when the horse spins around the toy, it releases food treats!

Likit Tasters: This toy form a Britain based company Likit is also a ‘treat’ giving one, which can make the horse stress free inside the stall.

Snake - A – Balls: Again a product from Britain. It delivers some sort of pellet food for horse upon movement. Even giraffes are using this product and have proven to be effective as a good stress reliever for horses too.

Remember, toys are not just for horses to relieve their stress; they can also be used to create a long lasting bonding between the owner, trainer, rider and the horse. Make sure you get your horse the safest and meaningful toys for such a bonding relationship.

 

15. How to Break and Train Your Horse

Breaking and training your horse is one of the most tedious jobs when it comes to dealing with horses. At the same time, it is of utmost importance as well, as the trust worthiness of a horse entirely depends upon the initial breaking and training that it undergoes.

Let’s take a look at some of the important points while breaking and training a horse.

Firstly, you need to place a rope that is well fitted on the horse’s head attaching a lead rope to lead the horse too the round pen. Any misbehavior such as pushiness, moving ahead or such attempts need to be watched and can be stopped using the lead rope. You can always give time for the horse to back few steps before trying to control.

In the next step, you need to remove the lead rope from the halter and should place the horse in the round pen. You can use the lunge whip to free lunge for some time. An upright ear towards you is a good indication of attention.

The command word ‘whoa’ can be used many times in a firm voice to the horse to see any response. In case of no response to the command, try impeding the forward movement by placing the lunge whip in front. Also you need to attach the lunge line to the halter. This is mainly intended to have some additional control.

Next, gently rub the burlap sack all over his body while he stays in the round pen. This is to make him feel comfortable with the sense of foreign objects over his body which will aid the use of saddle and rider positioning at a later stage.

Gently placing a light weight saddle pad over his back, neck and rump will aid in observing his uncomfortabilities and will assist in saddle pad placement once he is trained.

Placing the real saddle is the next step. Saddle blanket can be swung into position gently and the girth can be pulled towards the trainer under the belly.

Give some time for the horse to get used adjusted to the saddle placement and allow him to stand upright in the round pen. They might make attempts to get rid of the saddle which takes some time to calm down.

Bring the horse to the middle of the round pen and tighten the cinch a bit firmly. You need to place your foot slowly in the stirrup and need to try bouncing up and down. Slowly give your weight on the stirrup and try to swing over the horse by placing yourself properly on his back. Once you are on top, you can try commanding the horse to move few steps ahead, which is a good indication for a start in breaking and training your horse.

Once the horse has gone through these preliminary stages, you can go for more specialized commands and trainings which are much more intense. But always remember, this one basic stage is what determines this animals ‘trust worthiness’ in the following years.

 

16. How to Clean a Horse Stall

If a horse stall is being used a horse even during any part of the day or a full day itself, cleanliness of the stall is of utmost importance. An unclean and unhygienic horse stall is a breeding place for insects which leads to complicated health issues such as hoof problems, thrush, lung diseases for the horse and the pony. The unhygienic workplace can also create serious illness for the up keepers of the horse stall.

Let’s take a look at a step by step procedure of how to clean a horse stall in detail.

Dress for the work: Proper hand gloves and work boots are essential for preventing contamination.

Clear the area of work: Empty all the feed tubs, and clear out any toys, pans, buckets etc while the horse is out.

Assemble your work tools: Park your work cart close to the stall door before starting actual cleaning.

Dig in: Any wet or moist contents on the floor surface needs to be removed with a pitch fork and also with the help of a shovel.

Move towards the manure pile: Take your time to clear off the wheel cart to the manure pile. It is advisable not to fill the wheel cart in full in order to ease the movement of the cart.

Clean thoroughly: The surface of the stall needs to be cleaned thoroughly, scraping and removing even the underneath bedding to the cart.

Make the surface even: Once the scrapping of the wet bedding is done, you need to spread across the cleaner bedding on the surface and distribute it evenly.

Add new bedding: Wheel cart can be used to transfer fresh loose shavings of straw to the stall with the help of a straw fork.

Thick the bed: It depends upon the type of flooring inside the stall and the season that prevails during the time of cleaning. Concrete floors require thicker bedding and rubber ones need thinner bedding as a rule of thumb.

Weekly maintenance, cleanliness of the alleys and doors, cleanliness of the tools for further usages etc. also need to be followed in having a good routine of horse stall cleaning.

The following tips can be kept in mind while you indulge in horse stall cleaning. Always keep the wheel barrow in the direction that you want to exit. It’s better to hang the cleaning equipment’s on some inexpensive kind of hangers for avoiding the contact with soil.

During winter season it is advisable to just clean the upper surface of the stall floor and leave a thicker layer of padding inside for warmth purposes. Use cob webs and brooms to put down any spider webs from time to time. Gloves that have sticky rubber dots are good in handling the cleaning equipment with greater grip.

Make sure that you also have all the necessary cleaning equipment such as a wheel barrow, cleaning cart, pitch fork, shaving fork, gloves, boots, cap, broom, and shovel etc. for a stable and perfect job of horse stall cleaning.

 

17. What to Do When Your Horse is Going to Have a Baby

Horse pregnancy is something that requires extreme care and attention. Upon bred, a mare will undergo an eleven month of gestation period at the end of which she delivers a healthy foal. These eleven months of gestation period and the after birth needs special attention from our side. Understanding the happenings during this period will make things easier for you when your horse is going to have a baby.

Gestation Period: The normal gestation period is 11 months or 340 days. But this approximate time period can vary both in front and back. i.e. delivery can happen even at 315 days earlier of even as late as 370 days which still can be considered a normal delivery too.

Determination: The best mechanism to detect pregnancy is the ultrasound, which can detect pregnancy in 4 weeks’ time. Whereas the normal urine sample test can yield a reliable result only after 60 days of breeding period.

Early Term: The initial 100 days of gestation period will not show much noticeable changes with the mare. The first 30 days enables the embryo to grow to a size of almost 1 inch which extends to 3 inches within 60 days and to almost 7 inches by 100 days of gestation period. By this time all the main body parts including hair will start formation.

Mid Term: This is the time period after 100 days up to 250 days of gestation period in a mare. Veterinarians normally suggest a pregnancy checkup and test during this period as many mares drop their pregnancy during the early term even without detection. By around 150 days of gestation, the foal will have almost all developed body parts and organs and the growth rate after this is much faster. It grows from 2 pounds to almost 10 pounds by 180 days. The end of the midterm is when the mare will have noticeable physical changes and the foal will almost be the size of a lamb.

Late Term: This is where the crucial stage begins. The foal starts developing lungs for an outer world life. Around the 300th day the udder of the mare will distend discharging a yellow sticky substance, which is what will turn out as milk after the baby is born

Last Days: By this term, we should be ready to meet delivery at any time. This anticipation might seem to be a headache as delivery can be even late for one month after the anticipated date. But a daily observation is a must during this period. After a week of delivery, the foal will drop. The hind legs of the mare relax and its proximity will appear to be low.

 

18. What to Do If Your Horse Breaks it's Leg

What to do if your horse breaks its leg? The answer is not as simple as the movies would have us believe. Of course the answer that is shown in television dramas almost always means putting the horse down. It is one thing to turn to that solution when it is a TV show and not your horse. But when it is your horse whose life is at stake, it is wise to think the question of what to do if your horse breaks it’s leg though a little more.

Not all situations where a horse is limping mean that the horse has sustained a devastating break of the bone which will lead to the end of its life. There are some kinds of bone injuries that are not as serious where treatment, medication and rest can be of help. So do not jump to a conclusion when you become aware that your horse has a leg injury that the outcome will be the death of the horse.

When thinking about what to do if your horse breaks its leg, the obvious answer is to get your veterinarian in to inspect the injury and to give you some advice. As is true in all forms of medical science, the tools and methods that veterinarians have today are vastly better than ever before and often something can be done for the horse that could lead to a full recovery.

It is also important to think about the life of the horse in terms of the vocation of the animal. While a bone injury may mean the end of a racing career, it may not be as serious if the horse has a life as a member of a loving family and the most stress it will get is to give the children rides from time to time. Many work or race horses that do experience injuries go on to productive lives as stud animals or as pets.

If the bone injury that your horse has experienced is a hairline fracture, it is entirely possible to nurse the animal back to health. Do all you can while you wait for the veterinarian to make the judgment to keep weight off of that leg. A horse is a very heavy animal and if the horse bears down on even a hairline fracture, that could damage the bone more severely which could result in a more dire outcome.

Keep in mind that if you decide not to put your horse down, the tender loving care needed to help it recover will be demanding on you and others who care for the animal. It could also be an expensive process which could impact your budget by thousands of dollars to get the horse the treatment it needs.

Perhaps the most important consideration before deciding what to do if your horse breaks its leg is to think though the potential suffering the animal will go through in recovery and the quality of life that it will enjoy long term. Often a horse who has broken a bone will endure arthritis and you would not want to see your animal suffer unduly.

Above all learn all you can about the nature of the injury and the possible ways available to you to help your beloved horse recover from a leg injury. Then, you will know that even if the outcome is to put the animal down, you do so after making an informed decision.

 

19. How to Trailer Your Horse

As a responsible horse owner, knowing how to trailer your horse the right way is one of those essential skills. The first step toward putting together a plan for transporting your horse safely from one place to another is to invest in a quality horse trailer. But making sure your horse rides in that trailer safely also calls on you to know how to trailer your horse correctly and to carry those steps out without fail anytime you must take your horse somewhere in that trailer.

Part of your job in getting the right equipment to take care of your horse well includes buying a horse trailer that fits your animal well. Most horse trailers are about seven feet high so should be plenty of room for your horse to move his head. Be mindful that if your horse is quite big, you may need to invest in a larger trailer. Do not cut costs on this because to put a big horse in a trailer that is too small for it will offer too many opportunities for the animal to hurt itself in transit.

Inspect your trailer between uses to make sure it is safe the next time you must transport your horse. Inspect the floor to assure there is no damage to the slats that could catch the hoof of your horse and causes a sprain or worse. Part of knowing how to trailer your horse knows how to spot anything in the walls or roof of your trailer that could poke your animal or become dislodged and injure it.

Each time you prepare to take your horse on a trip in that trailer, think about the horse’s needs in route. Make sure there is adequate water and food in the trailer if it is going to be a long trip. Prepare the animal before leading it into the trailer to travel. It is smart to wrap your horse’s legs before trailering it so that the potential of injury while it copes with the trip is reduced. It is fine to lead your horse into the trailer with a line but be sure the knot is quick release so if the animal becomes tangled; you can quickly fix the situation.

In order to be sure you know how to trailer your horse for a safe trip, understand the mechanics of the trailer and make sure it is in tip top condition for each trip. Make sure it can handle the road and deliver a smooth and safe ride for your animal. The last thing you need is a blow out or some other technical problem with the trailer that will endanger your horse as you travel.

Finally, be mindful of your driving habits as you travel. Your horse is totally dependent on you to drive safely and to avoid jolts or sudden stops that will be hard for your animal to deal with back there. Stop and check on your horse frequently and talk to it to let it know that all is well. It is fine to take it out of the trailer to walk the horse around some do not let it graze at rest stops as that grass will have unhealthy chemicals in it that can make your horse sick.

It takes some thought and effort to know how to trailer your horse. But when you arrive at your destination and your valuable animal comes out good as new and ready for the activities you took it traveling to be part of, you will be glad you took those precautions to travel well with your horse both to the destination and home again.

 

20. How to Make Sure Your Horse Does Not Colic on You

It is a given that you want to do all you can to assure your horse is healthy and energetic both for its good and so that you and your family can enjoy the horse to the fullest. Part of that goal includes learning how to make sure your horse does not colic on you. Colic is a fairly common ailment in horses so the more you know about preventing it, the better.

The first thing to understand about how to make sure your horse does not colic on you is that there are various levels of severity and causes of colic in horses and the prospect for your horse to get through a bout with colic depends on the cause. Certain types of colic are caused by the displacement or twisting of the intestines. These forms of colic are often fatal and there is little you can do to predict, prevent or correct the problem. However, these types of deadly colic in horses are rare.

As is true in humans, the most common types of colic in horses are related to diet and the healthy functioning of the intestines. For those cases, it is entirely possible to know how to make sure your horse does not colic on you. There are steps you can do to manage diet, exercise and stress to stop colic in that horse you love long before it starts.

Once case of colic in a horse is called gastric distension which, in easy terms means your horse has eaten too much. Now it is important to keep clear that a horse will not overeat while grazing. Even if it did, the problem does not come from roughage. It is the grains that are part of your horse’s diet that come from grains or pellets that you provide to your horse instead of or in addition to what it gets from grazing.

Those foods can convert into gaseous material which can expand and cause the intestines to become stretched which at best causes colic discomfort. Since a horse cannot throw up, this kind of colic can be a serious problem if it gets to an extreme stage. The key to knowing how to make sure your horse does not colic on you from overeating is to be careful how much food that is not roughage you provide. Also make sure your horse has plenty of water and that any diet changes are introduced slowly to reduce the chances of colic.

Do not overlook the need for sufficient exercise because that can go a long way to cut down on the incidence of colic in your horse. When the animal can run and exercise properly, the digestive system works correctly and blockages are passed naturally. But be careful when your horse gets excessive exercise such as when in training or racing so that it cools down well and that any stress from that work out is rewarded with plenty of time to settle down.

Your horse cannot complain about a stomach ache in the same way that a child can. So be sensitive to your horse’s food balance, the levels of exercise any other signs that your horse may be suffering from colic. If you pay attention and give your horse the tender loving care it needs, you will able to stop colic and all of the suffering and health problems it can cause in your horse once and for all.

 

21. What to Feed Your Horse

As is true of any animal that you may be responsible for, what to feed your horse is one of the primary areas of knowledge you must understand well. A horse is a valuable investment, a beautiful animal and a beloved companion so you want to make sure you feed it well and correctly. There is nothing more satisfying than seeing a healthy horse running and enjoying life and you have a lot to do with that in how you feed your animal and what kind of foods you provide.

Knowing what to feed your horse goes beyond just what kind of nutrition to provide to your animal. You will balance the percentage of foods into a diet that is healthy but also the correct amount of food for an active horse. To do that, you first need to know the weight of your horse. That is not as difficult to learn as it sounds. You can buy a special measuring tape that will do a good job estimating your horse’s weight. When you measure the horse’s heart girth, the tape will tell you what the horse’s estimated weight is. The heart girth is, for all intents and purposes, the horse’s “chest”.

The weight of your horse will tell you how many pounds of food it needs each day. What to feed your horse starts with how much to feed it. By taking care to give your horse enough good food, it will be healthy and energetic. By being careful not to over feed your horse, you keep him trim and lively and able to perform.

Getting the right mixture of grain and roughage in the diet of your horse is probably the most important aspect to what to feed your horse. It is very important that you do not give your horse too much grain. This can lead to digestive problems which could get severe if you do not find the right balance. Hay is a good base for your horse’s diet so try to achieve a diet level of a pound and a half of hay per 100 pounds of weight of your horse.

Not every horse needs grain so don’t feel it is required for your animal. A good rule of thumb is that horses that perform heavy labor each day need extra grain. Also plan to add grain in the diet of young and growing ponies or mares that are lactating. Weigh the grain you feed your horse and go by that rather than by measurement. So weigh the grain mixture you use and adjust how much you give your horse accordingly. Corn will weigh more than bran and so knowing what to feed your horse includes knowing how to measure it correctly.

It is always smart to consult with the veterinarian who knows your horse well to get specific ideas for what to feed your horse. He or she may suggest supplements that will come with specific guidelines on how to administer that part of the horse’s diet. Educating yourself in the diet of your horse is part of being a good horse owner. But it is worth it when the diet you provide to your animal results in a healthy and happy horse for you and your family to enjoy.

 

22. How to Prevent Your Horse from Going Barn Sour

Horses are such a joy to have around, but they can be very hard work sometimes also. There are a number of issues they will be embroiled in at some point or other, and as a horse owner, you need to deal with them all.

One rather common issue is that your horse might go ‘barn sour’. What this means is that she exhibits cranky behavior when you separate her from her herd, or from her buddy. Or, she likes her barn or stall very much, to a point that she does not want to leave it at all. This can be exasperating to deal with, especially when you want to do a million things with her outside.

A barn sour horse is not just irritating, but can also be downright dangerous. There have been reports of how the horse gallops uncontrollably to the barn upon being in its vicinity, sometimes hurting people in the area in the process of doing so.

The question that begs to be answered is, why does this happen? What causes it? The answer is quite straight forward: your horse is insecure. Insecurity leads to misbehavior.

Over the weeks or months that lead to her being barn sour, your horse must have learned that whenever she goes out, she experiences a bit of difficulty, insecurity, burden, load, work, scary things, loud noises, and the like. In contrast, whenever she comes home to the barn, she’ll be greeted with warmth, safety, friendship, love, rest, food, drink, treat, comfort, and all the good things that make her want to stay home forever.

So at this point of time, you might want to ask yourself, what have you done that allows for this pattern to emerge? Is it true your horse goes through not-so-good experiences while outside, and only the good stuff while in?

One thing for sure, you can work to ‘unsour’ your horse. Start by introducing all kinds of fun activities outside the barn that your mare or gelding can enjoy. Bring a bag of grain or a pack of horse treats, and treat your animal to some of those after you have reached quite a distance away from the barn. Take a halter and replace the bridle. Let her graze for a bit and do not hassle her at all. Let her enjoy the peace of the great outdoors.

In addition, take a bit of the ‘comfort’ factor away from her barn. For example, do some trotting in small circles. Work her out a bit. Let her realize that the barn is not just for fun and relaxation. There is work to do there too.

After a while, your gelding will start to realize that leaving the barn can mean having fun and staying in can mean work. The thing is, she wouldn’t know what to expect, so she must be prepared for both any time.

It could be that your ‘okay’ kind of horse is a barn sour one in the making. Once you detect sour tendencies, do not wait any longer. Act on it before it becomes full blown.

 

23. Mare, Gelding, or Stallion, and What is the Best Horse for Your Needs?

If you are fortunate enough to own a horse, be grateful for it. Not everybody has that golden chance. A horse can bring you much joy and happiness if the right and suitable one is chosen.

So the appropriate question to ask here is which type of horse is most suitable for you? Either a Mare, a Gelding or a Stallion horse?

The best way to answer this question is to go through the good and bad of each type of horse, and see if you are willing to deal with both sides of it. You will find that each has its own pros and cons. And even what constitute pros and cons are different for different people. Some people see some ‘cons’ as ‘pros’, just because they like the challenge of it.

Another thing to remember is, horses, like people, are individuals. While you can predict their behavior, you might not see your prediction come true in your individual horse. Each horse is created different, so you must be prepared for this.

Mares: These are adult female horses. Like their human counterparts, female horses have their share of hormonal ups and downs. To put it bluntly, when they are ‘in season’ or ‘in heat’, they get all cranky and grumpy. You might find them a handful. This is true only at certain times, usually in March all the way to October. This duration is longer if you happen to live in warmer areas.

During this time, you might find that even at a gentle touch on the mare’s body, she will react hysterically. She would snap and kick, sometimes uncontrollably. So the question at this point is, are you willing to put up with that?

Stallions: If mares are difficult, stallions are even more so. And the answer lies in the hormones, too, just like the mares. For stallions, their testosterone reigns supreme, so if you have mares around, you can watch how your stallion’s behavior turns aggressive and domineering. If you are not firm enough or experienced enough, you might put yourself in danger trying to control your stallion.

Geldings: These are male horses that have been castrated, so there are no hormones to deal with. Male horses become calmer, quieter, and better behaved once they turn into geldings. This makes them easier to handle, especially if you do not have much experience in this area.

Having been castrated, the geldings have an issue with cleanliness around their penis areas. It’s called ‘sheath’, which is the skin that surrounds the gelding’s penis. The sheath has folds and creases, perfect for the likes of dead skin cells and dirt and fatty secretions to take residence in. The accumulated stuff is black and waxy, and is foul smelling beyond belief. Called ‘smegma’, you need to get rid of this stuff at least once a year or more often as needed.

The cleaning process is really a lot of work. Your gelding must be calm when you are doing it. If not, your problem is going to be much bigger!

Should you find cleaning the sheath simply unbearable, take heart. There is always someone else who can do the job for you. Ask your vet, he or she may have an idea on whom you can ask. Or maybe your vet does not mind doing it.

 

24. What to Do If Your Horse Spooks at Something

Just like every child you might have raised before, your horse is subjected to ‘spooks’ every once in a while. Some of the spook objects may be legitimate, hence it is only valid that the poor horse spooks at them. Sometimes, though, it is really ridiculous why she spooks. You as a rider can be exasperated at the extent your horse goes to, spooking around unnecessarily.

Like it or not, horses spook at some point or another. If yours haven’t yet, she will, sometime soon most likely. So you might as well read up about it and be prepared. You do not want to do the wrong things when that happens. Worse still, you do not want to be the reason for the spooking act.

There are many opinions as to how to react when your horse spooks. You might be contributing to the spook factor without realizing it. Say you are riding your horse, and it suddenly does it. What would you do? Not knowing what is best, many riders would clamp their legs around the horse. Or if there are reins involved, the rider might pull back on the reins tightly. In this case, you are introducing another variable in the equation. You become part of the problem.

A spooked horse is a scared horse. The last thing you want is to make the situation worse than it already is. Depending on the circumstances, it might be a good idea to just ignore the spook behavior and move on as usual. Just keep moving, or do other stuff to distract your horse, like signal for a change of direction, or backing up, or stop, or give to the bit, or whatever else that you and your horse know how to do together. By doing this, you are giving him all kinds of things to do, and he cannot focus on the spook. You will usually find your horse getting calmer this way.

Some people say that this method is not a good one, because it will only aggravate your animal, and makes the situation worse. This may be true at some point, especially if the object of spook is something real and is there for the horse to see again and again. So, ignoring the matter may not be the best thing to do. Rather, go to the object and let the horse sniff at it or whatever, anything to make him regain his lost confidence back. You might want to talk to him and pat him gently to calm him down. Give him the assurance that everything will be okay.

As you can see, there is no one ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to react to spooky situations. Sometimes you must try multiple methods and decide on which ones work, and which ones actually make the condition worse for you and your horse.

The main idea here is to get your horse to focus on you and what you want him to do, and not on other distractions that might come his way. Every horse is different, and every rider is different too. But the more time you spend with your horse, the more you get to know him, and the more you are familiar with the way he interacts under different sets of conditions.

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